One step at a time!

We arrived by train to Canterbury to start the via Francigena walk. The 2,000-kilometre way was first documented by Sigeric the Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury. In 990 AD he travelled to Rome and back for his consecration using a network of Roman roads, apparently, all efforts have been made to try and keep close to the original route. We hope to walk all the way to Siena (2 weeks short of Rome). We looked around Canterbury, of which the huge cathedral is the main attraction. We needed to go there as they are the only place that have the pilgrim credential passport. We need this to get into certain accommodations that are only for pilgrims walking the via Francigena. They told us that they haven’t had any for quite some time and do not know how we will get one. Oh well, such is life.

Day 1 - Canterbury to Shepherdswell (10.75 miles). The path took us through rolling countryside with many crops such as wheat (English corn), soya beans, canola, clover and many grasses. The wildflowers are beautiful, blooming everywhere! Of course, there are also the lovely stinging nettles often at the sides of the path. The highlite of our day was Mike and Stella, our BnB hosts. They welcomed us with open arms, even though we arrived early, giving us tea and bikkys (cookies). They cooked a wonderful supper as well and a great breakfast. Mike booked our P&O English Channel transit tickets and Stella brought our backpacks to Dover, so we didn’t have to carry them. To our delight she also brought a pilgrim’s credential passport which someone had left accidently in the church a few days ago. It had the two stamps we already needed – we just changed the dates. We were so thrilled and felt royally spoilt! (The little hobbit house in their back yard was for entertaining - benches all around the edge with a charcoal grill in the middle for cooking).

Day 2 – Shepherdswell to Dover (8.75 miles). The path today is very similar to yesterday. More cows today, walked through a paddock with cows and one huge bull...we were a little wary but he just looked at us and then turned back to his cows, he had way more interest in them. The rocks around this area are brown but if broken they are white inside, limestone (more on this tomorrow). We had traditional English fish and chips for supper in Dover, definitely not as good as the ones I enjoyed so often when I lived in London way, way back!

 Day 3 – Spent the day in Dover (6 miles) – we walked to see the white chalk cliffs at Dover. The cliffs are made from layers of soft, white, finely grained limestone, reaching a height of 110 meters (350 ft) and stretching 8 miles. The Strait of Dover is the shortest distance between England and France (a little under 21 miles) and on a clear day you can see the cliffs from the French coast. We had a picnic at the light house on the cliffs and we were able to see Calais on the French side. We walked around Dover castle, what a feat to build. The ground is full of tunnels under the castle and the cliffs. These have been used as barracks (including a hospital) for the Napoleonic Wars, WWII, & a nuclear war shelter in the 60s. The land trust purchased them in 2012 and are now using them to make money!

 Day 4 – Dover to Calais (France) on the ferry – 1hr 35mins. We had a beautiful day for our ferry crossing. The White Cliffs of Dover from the ferry.

There are many ships in the English Channel, we were told that there were many bad shipping accidents in the past but since the maritime law, south bound ship go down the English coast and north bound ships go up the European coast, went into effect, there has been minimal shipping accidents. Ferries that are crossing must give way to south bound ships, going behind and they have the right away on north bound ship. There were only about 10-15 foot passengers. We boarded a bus and they drove us onto the ferry and the bus returned to the dock before any vehicles loaded. The same happened in Calais, all the vehicles disembarked, then a bus was driven on the ferry, picked us up and took us to the terminal. We caught a shuttle into downtown Calais. First stop was the bank for Euros! Our original hotel canceled on us, so we hunted for another, perfect location on the beach and we only needed to step out the door onto the path. The path is mostly on the beach if the tides are in our favor. We are back to driving on the right, so not so dangerous crossing the road again! Goodbye English, Bonjour Francais. Dale has been attempting to learn French on duolingo for a couple of years and so far, so good. (The following pictures are of Calais' main street and the city hall)

Day 5 – Calais to Wissant (12 miles) a beautiful day spent walking along the beach. The tide was out, so we could walk the entire distance on the beach. Incredible cliffs with black footed kites, cormorants, and gulls flying overhead and serenading us. I think the black footed kites were angry as we were invading their nesting areas in the cliffs. This entire walk had WW2 bunkers consistently along the sand dunes & cliffs. Some areas the shoreline had eroded away and the bunkers had fallen to the beach. There were many ships and ferries to watch out at sea and the white cliffs of Dover from the French side. The English Channel is 21 miles at the narrowest point. Wissant is a pretty little town with ~1000 residents.

Day 6 – Wissant to Guines (16.5 miles only did 12 miles) (pronounced gin knees) We learnt a hard lesson today. We walked through 3-4 small towns but there was no grocery corner store and no cafe. One had a restaurant which had closed early. Most restaurants are only open noon-2pm and 7-9pm. We had taken no food with us and I was exhausted at 12 miles. We were in a little town and Dale attempted to ask some little girls about a taxi or bus. One ended up getting her mother who spoke some English and then proceeded to take us the rest of the way to Guines. I was so grateful! We found a bakery open in Guines and devoured sandwiches on super fresh baguettes, followed by a wonderful pastry filled with custard. Needless to say we will not be travelling without some morsels in our packs from now on. Stay overnight in a beautiful apartment - I hit the sack and Dale went searching for food and the only thing he found was pizza and beer, so he settled for the pizza.

Guines City Hall.

Day 7 Guines to Licques (12 miles) We can't pronounce this town, so just calling it licorice! We mostly walked through forested areas and rolling hills with beautiful landscape. We passed many Charolais cattle. They have white or cream colored coat with a pink muzzle. Used in ancient times for work, it is now bred only for the production of meat. The main street of Licques had this cool little home with a belfry, plus ivy making it unique. French love pizza and we were blown away when we seen this fast food dispenser on the side walk - it dispenses frozen pizza and the cooking instructions on the front. We are in a little cabin at a camp site tonight - very nice.